Q. I have a Lightroom catalog that contains pictures I have accidentally erased. The items are not in the “Recycle Bin” nor do I have any other access to the JPEGs. Is there anything that can be done using Lightroom to retrieve the JPEGs?
Yesterday we featured a straightforward guide to using Selective Exposure adjustments to get the light right in complicated images with a wide range of brightness levels throughout the frame. Today's tutorial from another image-editing expert demonstrates how to take a similar approach with Lightroom's powerful Selective Color tools.
We regularly preach the importance of taking a selective, rather than a global, approach to processing your images. This simply means limiting your adjustments to specific portions of a scene that really need work, instead of making enhancements to the image as a whole.
Serge Ramelli is an accomplished Paris based-photographer known for dramatic black-and-white imagery, and in the video below he reveals how he uses Lightroom to give photographs a powerful and distinctive look.
Despite the preponderance of accessories available for smartphone photographers, it’s rare we stumble upon something unique that stands out from the crowd. But that’s exactly what we discovered after receiving the Magnetic Phone Mount Kit from eXplorer Photo & Video.
One primary task of all photographers is to guide a viewer's through an image to the primary subject within the scene, which is one reason why judicious sharpening is so essential. It's also a well-established fact that the human eye is generally most attracted to the brightest and sharpest areas in a photo.
Sharpening photos isn’t particularly difficult, nor is it always necessary. But as image-editing expert Blake Rudis says, “Unlike many things in photography, sharpening is one of those tasks where there’s a right way and a wrong way to do it.”
Selective focus is a popular technique when you want to separate a prominent foreground subject from the background. Other times, especially with landscape photography, the goal is to shoot the scene so everything appears sharp—from the foreground to the background.
You’ve no-doubt read about accessories that claim to ”turn your phone into a DSLR,” but let’s face it—nothing can do that. However, we recently tested the well-made ShiftCam ProGrip that does provide a more camera-like experience and offers mobile photographers an array of convenient features for added functionality.
Outdoor photographers often confront a confounding challenge when shooting scenes with an extremely wide range of tones from deep shadows to bright highlights and everything in between. The problem is this: Their cameras lack sufficient dynamic range capabilities to nail an exposure in one shot.
Have you ever returned from a trip after visiting several famous landmarks, reviewed your images, and said to yourself, “Wow, these are really nice photos, but they look like all the others I’ve seen?" This is a common occurrence, and today we’ll explain several methods for doing things differently so your images stand out from the rest.
We've all been awestruck by breathtaking time-lapse "videos" and wondered if creating them was within our skills. As you'll see in the tutorial below, just about anyone with a camera and some know-how can get the job done.
If you consistently capture great images under normal conditions but struggle in low light, the tutorial below is for you—whether you shoot landscapes, wildlife, or other types of outdoor photographs.
As Hamlet one said: "To edit in color or to edit in b&w, that is the question." Well, not really, but it's a question you should ask yourself regardless of the type of images you shoot.
Back when we all used film, the proper way to meter a scene had a lot to do with whether we were shooting slides or prints. The general rule of thumb was to expose for highlights with transparency film, and expose for shadows with negative film. But what’s the best approach when using digital cameras?