Every so often when you attempt to open an image, Photoshop gives you an “Embedded Profile Mismatch” warning. If you’re unsure what this means and how to deal with it, the following tutorial will set you straight.
Travel photographer Pierre T. Lambert recently broke his Sony 16-35mm f/2.8 GM lens and rather than take it to an authorized repair shop, he decided to open it up and see what was broken inside the $2,300 lens. Smart move? Probably not but, luckily for us, he shot a video of the lens teardown, which we have embedded below.
When configuring a camera, some photographers either ignore the Color Space menu or consider the options a “set-it-and-forget-it” choice. And that’s a big mistake, because this simple setting has a big impact on how images appear on a computer monitor and when used for various purposes.
There are various file formats for saving images, and more than a bit of confusion regarding which one to use. And while everyone seems to have their own process, some choices can be detrimental to layered images and your workflow in general.
Upscaling photos is a common task, and there are a variety of ways to get the job done. Discussions about which method to use, however, typically revolve around how images look on the computer screen at 100% or more.
Focusing speed and precision are key considerations when buying a new camera. Some models use a phase-detection autofocus (AF) system, while others use contrast-detection AF, and some offer the advantages of both.
Photography is no different than other creative pursuits, in that mistakes happen regardless of one’s skills. That’s often true with exposure, particularly under difficult lighting conditions.
Many landscape photographers never leave home without a polarizing filter, and consider this simple accessory almost mandatory for everything they do. But as you see in the eye-opening tutorial below, one pro says polarizers may detract from an image in certain situations—depending on the specific scene at hand and the mood you want to create.
It’s not uncommon for photographers to adopt a “set-it-and-forget it” mentality when configuring their cameras, thereby ending up with photographs that aren’t as good as possible. Whether you call this habit lazy or uninformed, there are times when the choice of a custom setting results in more creative images.
Photographers often turn to Lightroom's HSL sliders as the first step in editing landscape and nature photos. But what do you do when this technique falls short? As you'll see in the tutorial below, there's often a better solution that's very easy to accomplish.
Photographers feast on early morning and early evening illumination. Summer brings us more hours of daylight and consequently more shooting time. But exactly when does the sun come up in your town? And how can you determine what time the sun sets in a city you are about to visit?
Manny Ortiz is a professional photographer we turn to again and again for inspiration and instruction. In this video titled “All Photographers Take Bad Pictures,” he offers a little bit of both.
Candid street photography is all about timing, and recognizing the precise moment your subject is perfectly positioned in the frame. It’s this ability to press the shutter in a split of a second that results in a great image.
Conventional wisdom is that autofocus is the best mode to use for photographing birds, especially when your subjects are in flight. But every so often manual focus is a better choice, as you’ll see in the tutorial below.
If you’ve been around the block more than once you’re no doubt familiar with many of the “rules” of composition. Budding outdoor photographers are told to use the Rule of Thirds, always include the foreground to create a sense of depth, and never position a subject in the middle of the frame or bisect a shot with the horizon.