We all fall into a creative rut on occasion, and that’s often because we take the same approach to whatever we shoot. For portraits we typically reach for a short telephoto, and a wide-angle lens is usually our choice for landscape photography.
He stands in about 3 feet of roiling surf, wetsuit jersey glistening from repeated dunkings. The sky above Oahu’s North Shore is deep blue. Undertow currents grasp his legs—eroding sand beneath his swim fins—as water rushes seaward to build the next huge wave. He holds his bulky waterproof camera housing tightly, faces west toward the setting sun and checks the long tether attached to his wrist. He turns his head to watch the wave rise ever higher—a towering blue-green monster that’s starting to curl, white spume blowing off its top. He braces himself as best he can against the forces raging around him, points the camera toward the golden Hawaiian sunset, and waits as tons of water begins to curl over him, forming a tube. At what he hopes is the right instant, he fires off several shots and prepares to be pounded and rag-dolled by the massive wave.
Unless you're shooting with a full-frame camera, crop factor is an important issue in a variety of ways. And to complicate matters, there are a variety of crop factors to consider, whether you're using an APS-C model, a high-end compact, a superzoom camera, or a pocket camera of various types.
As Hamlet one said: "To edit in color or to edit in b&w, that is the question." Well, not really, but it's a question you should ask yourself regardless of the type of images you shoot.
Back when we all used film, the proper way to meter a scene had a lot to do with whether we were shooting slides or prints. The general rule of thumb was to expose for highlights with transparency film, and expose for shadows with negative film. But what’s the best approach when using digital cameras?
Here's a provocative and enlightening video from photographer Mark Denney. In the below clip, Denney discusses whether photographers should remove elements from a landscape photo during the editing process.
Shutter Speed is an important consideration with an interesting duality. Many photographers opt for high shutter speeds in an attempt to assure maximum sharpness—admittedly a key consideration when setting up a shot. But there are times when a slow shutter speed will deliver images with a heightened sense of artistry.
Is it just me, or is this summer extra hot? Grab your camera and stay cool with this extra cool Summer Sizzle Sweepstakes brought to you by Shutterbug. We might not include a yacht in the prizes, but maybe with the right gear you can convince a friend to let you take some nice photos on their boat. We gotcha!
This 10-minute tutorial begins with a question for those of you see captivating backlit photos with beautiful golden tones and think to yourself, "why don’t my photos look like that?" There are a number of challenges with shooting under such conditions, and the tutorial below explains what they are and how to overcome them.
It's nearly impossible to capture a great photo if the colors in your images are consistently unnatural, gaudy or dull. So if you're struggling with unimpressive color, whether shooting indoors or out, buckle up and watch the 10-minute tutorial below.
Most of you know that processing b&w images requires a much different approach than dealing with color, and in both cases there are a number of ways to achieve optimum results.
One way to give landscape images a dreamy, unique look is to employ slow shutter speeds to create a sense of motion that’s not visible to the naked eye. By using this technique clouds take on a soft cotton-like appearance, as does flowing water in lakes, streams, waterfalls, and the sea.
You can often make better pictures by thinking "simple."
Instead of trying to get as much as possible into the shot, try to include as little as possible. Ideally, you should include everything that adds to the picture, and nothing else. But that's a tall order for those new to photography...
So here's a common problem that may sound familiar: You come home from a day of shooting in the field, review your images on the computer, and feel really discouraged because you don't know whether to toss the files in the trash, or where to beginning fixing them with the software of your choice.
There's nothing worse than coming upon an awe-inspiring landscape scene, setting up your gear, and capturing what you think is an epic photograph—only to discover that the image is soft when you review it on the computer. The are a number of reasons for unsharp images, and the tutorial below provides a "guaranteed" method for nailing focus every time.