OK, be honest: How often have you skipped past the Color Calibration tool when processing images in Lightroom or Adobe Camera Raw (ACR)? If you’re like most photographers, the answer is something along the lines of “quite often.”
Bird photography is wildly popular regardless of where you live, among pros and novices alike. The quick tutorial below is intended for the latter, with four simple tips to help you get started.
So you have a bit extra cash to spend on photo gear, and you’re about to go shopping. Before you do we want to remind you of something we’ve stressed in the past; namely, it often makes far more sense to upgrade your optics than it does to invest in a new camera.
Wildlife and nature photography is often quite a challenge, with uncertain weather, ever-changing light, and subjects that quickly move through the frame. The video below promises to, “make your life as a photographer just a little bit easier” with five very effective hacks for beginners and experienced shooters alike.
We’re always on the lookout for unique techniques that enable you to capture artistic images that look different from others, and help you develop a style all your own. Today we have a good one that covers all three goals through the use of intentional camera movement (ICM).
Last week we brought you a basic primer on achieving maximum sharpness in the camera, regardless of the subject or lens you use. But long telephotos are a unique case, requiring even more precision and careful techniques.
Motion blur is a very popular technique in which slow shutter speeds are used to give photos a sense of movement, and appropriate subjects span the gamut from flowing water, clouds blowing across the sky, and even action shots of athletes. This effect can be achieved in the camera or during post processing.
When manufacturers design a camera’s menu they do so without knowing the type of images you shoot or what style of imagery you prefer. And that’s why it’s important to modify the default settings so they meet your specific needs.
Camera technology these days is amazing; it’s practically magic. The problem, though, to my way of thinking and photographing, is that the magic offers a very wide and deep comfort zone—you might call it a zone of automatic decisions, and it’s probably best not to spend a lot of time there, certainly not if you want to create individualistic images.
Photographing birds is a great way to try your hand at shooting wildlife because traveling to exotic locations isn’t required. All you need is a nearby park or nature reserve, and you can even get started in your own backyard.
The history of photography and camera technology is littered with controversies about the “best” way to capture an image. For a while shooters questioned the value of autofocus, then there was a debate regarding the quality of digital images vs. those shot with film.
All photographers are looking for an edge when it comes to shooting in mixed light outdoors, where there’s often a wide range of tones from bright highlights to deep shadows. While arriving at a balanced exposure can be challenging in these situations, there’s a way to use varying light levels to advantage.
Earlier this month we featured a tutorial explaining why low ISO settings can ruin the photo of a lifetime. Today we have another video contradicting conventional wisdom, and you may discover that you’re been making a simple mistake all along.
One of the first things many of us learned when first getting started is to always use the lowest ISO setting possible. While this rule may be true in certain situations, other times it can be detrimental to the images you make.
Whether you own a dog, cat, bird, or some other animal, we bet you shoot a lot of photos of your beloved pet. It’s rather odd that many pet photos taken by good photographers look more like snapshots than the real thing, and we’re going to put an end to that today.