Lauren Greenfield; Photographic Signs Of Our Times
No way is Lauren Greenfield a mainstream photographer. Her genre falls into
the realm of portraiture and social documentary but her true subject is loss
of innocence in a society dominated by media exposure. Greenfield's focus
is on the importance of image with young girls caught up in the rituals of pop
culture.
Her photographic message is unsettling and Greenfield knows her subject well.
At a recent exhibition at Tufts University outside of Boston the work drew great
attention. Many photographs provided an insider's look at low-riding jeans,
midriff tops, and excessive partying.
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"The project has been most rewarding, judging from the reaction in communities
where it has appeared," Greenfield says. "Since 9/11 people have
a renewed interest in looking at what is going on."
What is emphatically going on in Greenfield's photographs are bodies more
on display, companies marketing thong underwear, issues that have been explored
in other media. Greenfield has been inspired to explore the culture more closely,
and says, "I tried to see it photographically and in my book Girl Culture,
I have photographed the individual lives of young girls who are part of our
time, to document the moment."
Have girls changed that much? Having fashionable clothes and being part of the
group was always important, but now is more extreme. "It's all pretty
suggestive," Greenfield agrees.
What Greenfield really tells us is that exhibitionism is going more and more
over the top and the body has become the young girl's way of expressing
her identity, insecurities, ambitions, and struggles. "It has become a
palimpsest for our culture," she says, "and a tablet that is written
and rewritten."
Among the issues that Greenfield explores are eating disorders. In one series
we meet Erin who gets on the scale backward to avoid seeing the numbers. It
is heartrending. Erin was also a "cutter," her belly obviously ridden
with scars.
Greenfield was working on a film at an eating disorder clinic where she met
Erin. "I was concerned how being in my book would affect her because she
was so ill. She told me things in our interview that her family didn't
know and in the end when the book came out her family was proud of her and Erin
felt that being in the book had become part of her recovery. As an anorexic
she had not known how to use her voice and used her body instead. In telling
her story she learned how to speak."
Growing close to many of the girls, Greenfield's images have become a
canvas filled with messages and ideas, a place to view this dilemma of our time
and in many cases, send a message to parents to tighten the reins and take a
closer look.
Although her exhibitions have traveled worldwide, the trend is more dominant
in America. "European families have more structure, more institutions
and values that serve against these things," Greenfield explains. "They
are familiar with the movement because America is very good at exploiting pop
culture. In places like Russia, France, and Italy the writing is on the wall
and they are beginning to see it among teen-agers and women. In Russia the younger
generation has really embraced pop culture and their elders have trouble understanding
it. In France they call us `those crazy Americans!'"
Some occasions on which Greenfield focused were the traditional rituals of partying
for girls in the Latino communities. "I used these celebrations in two
ways," she says. "One is the traditional party for graduations or
other events. But I also used it to show the daily rituals that mark a young
girl's life, like putting on makeup for a big party or shopping with friends,
places where our values are formed and reinforced."
In Hollywood, 6-year-old Elita has her hair and makeup done, dressed as a model
in a fashion show and preparing for a tea party. Ruby, 15, stands in an exquisite
"wedding dress" accompanied by her beautifully gowned attendants
at a sweet 15 ritual in the Hispanic community, shot in Huntington Park, California.
No longer is age the criterion.
Greenfield shoots it all--from a beer bong party in Florida to a weight
loss camp for girls struggling with their own reflections. A particularly appealing
image is of a heavy but beautiful 12-year-old Lilly who makes us take a second
look at our own interpretation of beauty when we look at the photograph. Greenfield
took her picture at the camp. Greenfield explains through her photographs about
the hierarchy that prevails even at the camp where the "slimmer"
are the more popular. In the introduction to Girl Culture Cornell professor
Joan Brumberg relates one young girl's comment, "My mother weighs
me with her eyes."
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