Scene modes do not always fit the situation.

As a macro photographer, I mainly rely on aperture priority mode to get my shots with the proper depth of field, as I'm working with slow film anyways on a tripod so shutter speed really isn't that much of an issue except when it comes to wind. Then a faster speed is desireable.

When I first purchased my Penatx ZX-L 3 years ago, I thought it would be nice to have the pre-programmed modes for snap shots or other instances where I could just point and shoot. While I found them convenient to have, I found myself using apearture/shutter priority modes more often because I like to be in control of the camera setting and the picture outcomes. At times when I check the exposure of a pre-programmed setting, I found that it was not always near the exposure setting that I would have chosen on my own. The one pre-programmed solution I used most often (when I did use it) was the standard, GREEN mode. What I really like about the ZX-L is the ability to select an aperature setting via the camera, while retaining the lens setting on "A."

If I want to do something, and I know that a particular scene mode will do it, I use that scene mode, the problem is that they don't always do what i think they should do.

My main problem with scene modes is that they are too restrictive -- and in the case of the Canon EOS 10D, they also can force other settings (e.g. ISO) to values I don't like. In an ideal situation, I use manual mode, and use both the built-in and an external meter. In many cases, however, time pressures result in the use of the aperture or shutter-priority modes.

Use the "scenic" mode often because it uses higher fstops in computing exposure than "portrait" or regular automatic. Camera is a Sony 707.

My main use camera is a Canon Elan IIIe (eye control) I have used the scene mode once: I was at Dover England and wanted to catch the chanel crossing hovercraft in stop motion. I used the sports mode to get the highest shutter speed with a 80-300 mm zoom lens. The day was overcast and the scene mode worked well--the hovercraft propellers and water spray were caught. I was using iso100 Fuji film as most of southern England is green.

The scene modes are a pain on cameras; turning the dial to get past these things slows dowm the photographic process. My C5050 has them, when I went all digital slr, I chose to stay with OLy's E-1; no scene modes.

For wedding photography the auto program modes offer a time saving feature so I don't have to waste time with adjusting my camera settings. For pleasure photography I still like to manually set my own speeds and exposures.

The bottom line is, its just easier to use one of the program modes when you want to get a good picture and you don't have time to think about it.

The best feature of an SLR is the ability to get creative. Using pre-programmed modes diminishes the photographer's ability to capture a scene as impressioned.

I wish I could find a really good new camera with out all of these program modes on them. I have the Mamiya 645 AFD. love it but it is always on manual, had to pay more for something that is never used to get what I like about the camera. I never use them, I don't trust them. Being able to control it on you own is what makes you a good photographer I think.

I tried to take some pictures in the snow using the snow scenensetting. I thought they looked terrible. The color balance was totally off. I only use manual now.

AP worked best for me when shooting film and does the same now that I've gone digital. Go with what you know.

Scene modes are great on the fly but, (1) may fail in certain lighting conditions and (2) eliminate the challenge of rending a great image thru photographer's talent.

I ocasionally use Av or TV, especially when shooting my grandson running around the house. Never when it is important to get proper exposure on a subject.

As a relatively new student of photography, I feel I need to get a "feel" for exposure and with instant digital feedback the learning curve is fast enough.

I never use scene modes. My camera offers the chance to alter the Scene Mode settings to store your own, quickly-accessible custom camera settings. I can set up 5 different combinations to cover a variety of situations. This is more useful for my purposes.

The most accurate metering under difficult lighting conditions is with a hand held spot meter.

I have 6 Leicas and would not dream of taking a photograph without first using a Sekonic meter - usually in incident mode.

I feel you have more control using aperature or shutter priority.

My cameras do not have such "scene" modes. I tend to shoot manual or aperture priority.

I take many cloud photos and have found by trial and error that manual exposure with spot metering mode gives the most consistent results. I normally spot meter on a bright part of the cloud and then bias the exposure by about +2 stops.

Unless I am working in the studio I generally use Aperature or Shutter priority. In the studio I use full manual for obvious reasons.

Prefer to handle manually as to often scene modes are wrong.

I trust myself more than I trust my camera.

I have about 50 cameras, from 1917 on. I shout about 99.9% black and white with a spot meter. To me,digital is way to expensive, and when the magazines compare the quality of digital with film, they always mean 35mm which was one of the smallest film sizes ever made! To me a well exposed negative is a work of art by itself. One time I did buy a digital camera because i thought of selling a few things on ebay. Well, for 2 years it just sat there because I couldn't get my computer to recognize it! But my old kodak 116 worked fine.

For art and portraits I do want to compensate and use spot mesuring when I want a special lighteffect. So I can put some more or less into my picture.

For serious work I shoot film, black and white only and spotmeter. I have a digital camera (Canon A80) that I use for snapshots and even here I use manual exposure for almost everything.

Very useful when shooting things that change quickly, like kids.